Burford’s Saxon Roots
Burford, often referred to as the “Gateway to the Cotswolds,” is a beautiful town in the heart of the English countryside. Its history is unique in that there are no known Iron Age or Roman settlements or archaeological sites in the immediate area. The closest Roman road, Akeman Street, lies about two miles to the south, near the northern border of what is now the Wild Life Park. Although Roman artifacts, such as coins and pottery, have been found in the region, they are not abundant enough to suggest any significant Roman settlement.
Instead, Burford is a Saxon settlement, as evidenced by its Saxon name, which means “fortified settlement near the ford.” The town is first mentioned in the Saxon Chronicle, which dates back to around 890. Despite the lack of Roman history, Burford was a place of importance to the Anglo-Saxons, as demonstrated by the Synod of 685 AD. This meeting was called to determine the date on which the Anglo-Saxon Church should celebrate Easter and was attended by Ethelred, the King of Mercia, Theodore, the Archbishop of Canterbury, Borel the Bishop of Worcester, and many others.
Seventeen years later, Ethelred was once more in Burford, but under very different circumstances. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle records that in 702 AD, Cuthred, the King of Wessex, fought and defeated Ethelred, the King of Mercia. This ended the Mercian reign of the area, which it never regained. Ethelred’s standard was a Golden Dragon, and the people of Burford celebrated the victory over Ethelred by parading a Golden Dragon through the streets for many centuries afterward. This parade was reinstated in 1971 by the local grammar school when it celebrated its 500-year anniversary.
Medieval boom and growth of Burford
Burford’s next appearance in history was in the Domesday Book of 1086, which was produced following the Norman invasion of England. It is recorded as a village of at least 200 people. William the Conqueror granted his half-brother, Odo of Bayeux, ownership of Burford. At the time, Odo was the second-largest landowner in England after the King himself. However, Odo’s rebellion against William II led to his downfall and the loss of his lands, including Burford. The village was then granted to Robert Fitzhamon.
Shortly after in 1090, Fitzhamon granted Burford a Market Charter, one of the earliest of its kind in Norman England. The charter allowed the people of Burford to hold a market, rent out their property and sell or bequeath leases as suited them, and it removed them from the feudal system. So grateful were the people, that the town honoured him by taking as its seal Fitzhamon’s coat of arms.
Burford’s new “market town” status served as the catalyst for rapid growth and development. Archaeological evidence suggests that the old Saxon settlement was physically moved, being replaced by new, modern buildings and a new road layout.
The High Street as we know it today was laid out, wide enough to host the market. A grid road layout was applied to the town, and properties marked out. Later, in 1175, building work commenced on the Church of St John the Baptist, and around the same time, to the west of the town, and possibly in the area of the old Saxon village, the Hospital of St John the Evangelist was established, later to become known as “The Priory.”
Burford’s strategic location at the intersection of major north-south and east-west routes was also a key factor in its growth and development. The market that evolved over time was instrumental in incorporating all the local industries, such as wool from sheep farming, mills, weavers, tanners, and even the finest saddle makers in Europe.
The town’s agricultural sector was equally impressive, with a reputation for innovation and excellence, reflected in the flour mill and modern farming practices. While the brewery provided refreshments for the thirsty.
Throughout the Middle Ages, the ownership of the manor of Burford passed through the hands of some of the most notable knights and royalty of English history. Among them were Robert Duke of Gloucester, Sir Hugh le Despenser, Richard Beauchamp, 1st Earl of Worcester, and Richard Neville, Earl of Warwick. During the Wars of the Roses, Warwick was known as ‘The Kingmaker’.
For nearly 400 years, Burford enjoyed prosperity until the late 1500s, when Sir Lawrence Tanfield took ownership of both the manor of Burford and the Priory. Tanfield constructed the grand mansion that we now know as the Burford Priory.
However, Tanfield was no friend to Burford. As the Lord of the Manor of Burford, he removed many of the rights previously bestowed on the townspeople. As a final insult, upon his death, his widow arranged for his tomb to be placed in the church one night, without the permission of the priests or town. The tomb remains today and overshadows just about every other tomb in the church.
The people of Burford hated Tanfield so much, for the way he treated the town that they are said to have burned an effigy on the anniversary of his death for 200 years following his passing.
In the late 17th and 18th centuries, Burford’s prosperity was reignited thanks to the burgeoning wool industry. At its height, it is said that up to 40 coaches passed through the town each day along the Oxford to Gloucester highway, which ran through the heart of the town.
However, the 19th century brought a crisis for Burford. The railways rapidly expanded, linking towns and cities across England and bringing them great wealth, but the railways bypassed Burford. Even today, the nearest railway station is over 8 miles away. The main east-to-west highway was relocated south, circumventing the town completely. When the last horse-drawn coach left the town in 1850, Burford faced an uncertain future and risked being lost to history.
Fortunately, the 20th century brought hope. The invention of the motor car allowed people to explore beyond the standard routes offered by the railways. Combined with a desire by city folk to explore the countryside, Burford’s popularity surged. Its particular position on the edge of the Cotswolds led to the name “Gateway to the Cotswolds.”
The years of Burford’s neglect and lack of development now proved to be its trump card, and the stunning honey-colored Cotswold stone buildings are the highlight for any visitor to the town. in fact, in 2009, Forbes Magazine voted Burford the 6th most idyllic place to live in Europe