Every year, the Cotswolds attracts tens of millions of tourists, and many of those find themselves visiting Bibury, one of the main tourist spots in the entire region. Many are still encouraged by the words of a 19th-century British textile designer, William Morris, who upon seeing the village is reported to have described it as the “most beautiful village in England”. In these modern times, it might be better described as the “most photographed” or perhaps even the “most Instagramable” village in the Cotswolds, and possibly all of England. But in truth, Bibury and the neighbouring village of Arlington have been beautiful, attractive settlements for many centuries, hosting kings and emperors along the way.
History
Modern-day Bibury is in fact two villages masquerading as one. Bibury itself occupies the eastern bank of the River Coln as it meanders through this picturesque valley. On the western bank, you will find the ancient village of Arlington, which through the ages has morphed into Bibury. The western bank was first settled somewhere in the early Iron Age, in an area called Ablington camp, a hillfort whose rampart banks are still visible today to the north of Bibury.
Later, the Romans took a liking to this area too, and the remains of a Roman villa have been found further downstream, just south of the village where the river makes a large, lazy hairpin bend.
The origins of the name date back to the early 8th century, when the Bishop of Worcester gave estates to Earl Leppas and his daughter. Her name was Beaga and the early name of the hamlet was “Beagan-byrig”. Over the centuries this name has evolved, but still means Beaga’s fortified enclosure (‘bury’ meaning a fortified enclosure in Old English). The first church is recorded in 899, and further developed during Saxon times when the Bishop of Osney Abbey appropriated it and surrounding churches.
In 1921, the Japanese Emperor Hirohito visited and stayed in the village on his European tour, and today this fact draws many Japanese tourists to Bibury to follow in his footsteps.
What to see and do in Bibury
Arlington Row
One of the main attractions in the village, and indeed the sight that moved William Morris so, is Arlington Row. Now a row of beautiful, quaint Cotswold cottages, the original 14th-century building was used by the monks of the Church St Mary as a wool store, emphasising again the importance of wool to the story of the Cotswolds. Later, in the 17th-century, the wool store was converted into a row of weavers cottages, possibly the reason why a textile designer like Morris was visiting Bibury in the first place. Now owned by the National Trust, it is lived in by tenants, though one is available as a holiday rental.
Rack Isle
The beautiful cottages of Arlington Row look out over a water meadow called Rask Isle. The name dates back to a time when the area was used to dry wool which was hung out over racks a further reference to the legacy of wool in Bibury. Today it is a beautiful water meadow, fed by the River Coln and home to a great many species of plant and animal. Public footpaths surround the meadow, allowing you to look out for kingfishers, egrets, dragonflies and water vole. Depending on the season you visit, you may spot many beautiful plants such as ragged robin, yellow flag iris and marsh orchids.
Bibury Trout farm
The limestone waters of the River Coln are perfect for a variety of fish species but in particular brown trout. This led to the creation of the Bibury Trout Farm in 1902, making it England’s oldest working trout farm. You can choose to visit the trout farm and actively catch your own lunch, or simply purchase your own, and enjoy lunch at the relaxing onsite cafe. Apart from hosting visitors, the trout farm continues to actively breed brown trout, and the hatchery produces more than 1 million eggs a year. Trout are also smoked in the onsite smokery and supplied to hotels and restaurants in the local area and beyond.
Church of St Mary
Now a Grade I listed building, the church is on the site of the original 9th-century church. A visit to the church today reveals remnants and secrets from virtually all of the periods of its history, from Saxon gravestones to Norman doorway arches or the 13th-century font and the 15th-century roof. Outside you will find 17th-century table tombs and 18th-century wall monuments.